Mountain revery, part I.

[ 25.02.2009 - 27.02.2009 ]


El Chaltén pour son isolation.
El Chaltén pour ses montagnes.


À l'entrée du village,
nous sommes restés ébahis, dépourvus de paroles,
subjugués par cette scène pittoresque se dévoilant devant nous.


"We're actually here.
We're in Patagonia."

We took the day to organize our hiking plans
and to discover the untainted charms of El Chaltén.
We're grateful to have come here
while the village is still tiny, rustic, authentic.

We ate lunch at a microbrewery which charmed us right away
with its tree-stump benches, handcrafted menus,
and posterboard of world currencies.

It is here that we savoured a tasty and filling local dish, "locro".



Notre séjour ici fut paisible mais grandiose,
à l'image de son décor.

Alors que nous allions sans but,
visitant chacun des petits recoins du village,
nous avons fait la rencontre de nombreux gens
aussi sympathiques les uns que les autres.
Garde-parcs, serveurs, hôtes, voyageurs...
tous nous ont donné de précieux conseils
afin de pouvoir apprécier pleinement
l'expérience de la Patagonie.

Nous nous sommes rapidement sentis confortables
au sein de cette ambiance sereine,
dépeinte dans ses moindres détails.

Et alors que nous tentions d'atteindre le sommet d'une colline
pour profiter du coucher de soleil,
nous avons fait rencontre avec la solitude des lieux,
véritable éden avec chevaux et lièvres en toute liberté.

Vivre en paix avec soi-même.
Vivre en paix avec la nature.


Une journée extraordinaire,
à la fois surréaliste pour les yeux
et profondément réelle pour le coeur.

Une randonnée rafraîchissante,
accompagnée de conversations silencieuses

avec arbres et rochers.

Un modeste pique-nique
avec l'une des meilleures vues sur terre,
en présence d'un roi majestueux :
Cerro Torre.


Le glacier, lui, nous a parlé de sa
voix craquante et retentissante.
On ne peut qu'espérer pouvoir l'entendre pour bien des années
encore...


A phenomenal day,
one that was almost surreal to the eyes
and almost too real for the heart.

A refreshing hike in the woods,
conversing silently with boulders and trees.

A humble little picnic
with one of the best views on earth,
enjoyed in the presence of a majestic king:
Cerro Torre.

The glacier spoke to us with its cracking, thunderous voice.
One can only hope that it won't be silenced in this lifetime...




After our splendid hike came the rain;

the first time we've had to take a day off
due to weather since the beginning of our trip.

We're grateful to have had the sun on our side for a month and a half.

And so we checked out of Rancho Grande and into Albergue Patagonia
before having a nice lunch at yet another cozy, rustic restaurant.
After coming across some good finds at the supermercado,
we decided to stay in for a late dinner.

In the end, the rain was more soothing than it was bothersome.

It turned out to be a good day of postcard-writing,
reminiscing, and enjoying the little things.


While sharing anecdotes with loved ones,
a profound feeling came over me,
knowing that some of these postcards
would be traveling exactly the same distance
on both sides of the equator.

Two communities;
one an endearing hometown on a river bend,
the other a charming village in a mountain range.

Both distinctly different,
yet mirrored in latitude.

El Chaltén: 49°S
Kapuskasing: 49°N




To be continued... / À suivre...

[04.05.2009]


It's 7:15 pm. We're sitting in our hostel in Quito, about to leave for the airport in an hour. We're happy, we're excited, and we're in denial.

We just thought we'd post a message in "real-time" to let you all know that our trip is nearing its end, but there is still much to come on our blog. We're determined to finish what we started. Our intention in creating our travel blog was both to document our thoughts and memories for ourselves as well as being able to share them with family and friends so they could vicariously live the adventure with us. We would have liked to have been able to keep it updated, but adventures and mountains got in the way. And so we'll try our best to post some more thoughts and photos as soon as possible, back in the northern hemisphere.

In the meantime, we hope you are all doing well and we're grateful to have had you along for the ride. See you on the other side.

______________________


Il est 19h15. On est assis à notre auberge à Quito, juste avant de partir pour l'aéroport dans une heure. On est heureux, on est excité, et on a peine à y croire.

On a pensé écrire ce message en "temps réel" pour vous laisser savoir que notre voyage arrive à sa fin, mais qu'il est reste encore beaucoup à venir sur notre blog. On est déterminé d'aller jusqu'au bout. Notre intention en créant ce blog de voyage était à la fois de documenter nos pensées et souvenirs pour nous-mêmes tout en pouvant les partager avec famille et amis afin qu'ils puissent vivre indirectement l'aventure avec nous. On aurait aimé avoir pu le garder à jour, mais le temps s'est évadé entre les aventures et les montagnes. Alors on essaiera de notre mieux d'y ajouter d'autres pensées et photos le plus tôt possible, de retour dans l'hémisphère nord.

Entre temps, nous espérons que vous allez tous bien et nous sommes reconnaissants de vous avoir eus avec nous le long de notre voyage. On se voit de l'autre côté.

Carpe diem,
Amy-Lou & Dominic.

Stone canvas.

(February 24, 2009)

Our long hours of travel on Ruta 40 were well worthwhile if only for a pleasant visit we took at the halfway point of the trip. About two hours south of the town Perito Moreno, a detour 100 kilometers off the main road brought us to Cueva de las Manos (Cave of the Hands). In an isolated spot of Patagonian landscape, we walked into a gorgeous valley and discovered its legacy. Cueva de las Manos is one of the region's most cherished remnants of history, and it has been listed as a World Heritage Site since 1999.







Cueva de las Manos,
so named for the paintings
left by indigenous inhabitants
over 9000 years ago,
possibly forefathers of the Tehuelches.

Hand stencils,
geometric shapes,
depictions of nature,
human beings and animals.

Traces of white and black,
yellow and red.
A palette of mineral composites,
colours of the earth.

Artistic expressions
of an archaic civilization,
long ago disappeared.

It was a very alluring,
human experience.
To be standing there,
observing their story.






Internal, external, eternal.

(23-24 février 2009)
La Ruta 40.



Douze heures de route et de désolation,
une mince nuit de sommeil,
puis la même histoire qui se répète...

Des heures et des heures
de gravel sous les roues.

Et la route se perd.



De tout bord tout côté,
Rien.

Rien
sauf le calme et le silence
d'une région intacte.

Rien
sauf le vent et la poussière

d'un désert de petits buissons.

Rien.
Ni personne.



Personne
sauf quelques troupeaux de vaches et de moutons,

avec leur maître à dos de cheval.

Personne
sauf les guanacos et les ñandus
intrigués par notre passage.



Puis, au milieu de nul part,
un tout petit village isolé.

Rêveries et solitude abondent.

Au milieu d'un paysage serein,
les nuages implosent.


Un long périple
dans le néant,


Un voyage à l'intérieur
de soi-même
.

___________________

(February 23-24, 2009)


Ruta 40.




Twelve hours of desolate road,
a meager night's sleep,
and the same story the next day...

Hours and hours
of gravel under the wheels.

And the road digresses.




On all sides,
nothing.

Nothing
but the calm and silence
of an untouched region.


Nothing
but wind, dust,
and small clusters of shrubs.

Nothing.
And no one.



No one
but a few herds of cattle and sheep,

with their keepers on horseback.

No one
but guanacos and ñandus
intrigued by our passing.



Then, in the middle of nowhere,
a tiny desolate village.


Musings and solitude abound.

Amid the raw countryside,
skies implode.


A long trip winding
into the void,

A journey mostly
traveled inward.

La nature et la bohème.

(20-23 février 2009)

À deux heures de Bariloche,
au loin des touristes
et tout près des montagnes,
le village bohémien de El Bolsón.

Dans le dortoir de notre auberge,
on s'est installé confortablement
dans notre mini-loft,
une petite chambre à l'étage.




Notre passage à El Bolsón
fut marqué par notre première randonnée
en Patagonie.

Par une journée ensoleillée,
nous sommes partis sur le sentier
Cajón del Azul.



Une montée à pic
le long d'un canyon,
au travers d'une forêt profonde,

traversant la rivière
sur des ponts suspendus
plutôt délabrés.

Le tout nous a menés
à une petite vallée,
seule dans son propre monde.

Chevaux, moutons,
champs clôturés,
et au loin,
un refuge rustique isolé.

Sur le chemin du retour,
rien de plus que la nature.

La nature,
dans son état simple et pur.

Au milieu de la forêt,
une piscine naturelle d'eau turquoise,
si claire et limpide
qu'on y voyait le fond,
et même les poissons.

"À la claire fontaine
m'en allant promener,
j'ai trouvé l'eau si belle
que je m'y suis baigné..."

Lors de notre dernier jour à El Bolsón,
nous avons visité la foire artésanale,
impressionnante pour une telle petite ville.

Inspirés,
on s'est assis dans le parc
et on s'est gâté d'une bonne gauffre,
aux fruits des champs
des plus naturels qu'ils soient.

Patagonia, so long awaited.

(February 18-19, 2009)

O
ur first steps
on northern Patagonian soil.

We stepped into crisp winds,
a gorgeous mountain backdrop,
and shades of sunrise.


Bariloche,
a town of rustic looks
at the foothill of the Andes.

For one,
a feeling reminiscent
of Banff and western Canada.

For the other,
a charming atmosphere
all new to the eyes.

Gorgeous views
of the surrounding landscape,
revealed along a chairlift ride
up
Cerro Campanario.

From above,
a misty blend
of blue and green below.

From above,
a lush decor
of lakes and mountains
all around.

After a detour in the woods,
a winding bus ride
led us to Colonia Suiza.

A small village,
once an old Swiss settlement.

In a tranquil setting,
we indulged in
delicious ice cream
and local chocolate treats.



In a tranquil setting,
we let out a sigh..

Breathing in Patagonia.

Steaks, tango, and futból.

(February 14-16, 2009)

After the tiny villages of the eastern coast, we made our way back west to spend two days enjoying the colonial charms of Colonia del Sacramento before bidding farewell to Uruguay, and moving on to Argentina. From the shores of Colonia del Sacramento, the Argentinian capital was but a one-hour ferry ride away. A whole other world.

Our first impression of Buenos Aires was through the windows of our taxi that swirved through a maze of busy, narrow streets lined with tall buildings. After having spent the previous week in the tranquil villages of Uruguay, Buenos Aires was grand and overwhelming. We arrived to the city with no plans and no expectations, but what was an unplanned day turned out to be a lovely, spontaneous way to spend our first evening in Buenos Aires.

And so it is that we made our way to the famous La Boca neighbourhood to enjoy a theatre-tango show. Again, we didn't know what to expect, but we definitely weren't expecting something so colourful and enticing. We were greeted by a man in a 1940's police costume who directed us through an elaborate decor, an authentic replica of La Boca neighbourhood, which set the scene perfectly for the lively bohemian street atmosphere of that time.

Upon our arrival, we were led to a small coffee shop before the show, where the entertainment began with two actors in over-the-top tango outfits circulating the tables and playing the roles of a seductive dancer and a charming lady's man. They passed around the tables, taking pictures with people in exaggerated tango poses.

Then, we passed from the coffee shop to the middle of the outdoor scene, where the show began with an old man sitting on the train tracks playing accordeon as the streets livened up with the actors dancing, yelling, and stumbling about. An everyday scene of people going about their daily lives in the neighbourhood. We were standing so close, and the acting was so naturally played out, that we almost forgot we were watching a show.

After the theatrical entertainment, we passed to a dimly-lit hall where small round whitecloth tables were arranged in front of a stage for the dancing entertainment part of the show. To the live music of four charming elderly men playing the piano, violin, cello, and accordeon, three couples took turns performing their best tango choreographies on stage. They swirved, spun and glided seductively to the dramatic melody of the band, encouraged by the band maestro who enthusiastically shouted at given moments: "Bueno!", "Eso!", "Muy bien!".

We were absolutely taken by the combination of the rythmic music and intricate dancing. Our "La Boca Tango" show was a lovely surprise. We couldn't have imagined a better way to learn about the culture and history of this wonderful, passionate dance. And we couldn't have imagined a better way to spontaneously celebrate Valentine's Day in Buenos Aires, the city of tango. We got back to the hostel inspired, and perhaps a little too confident about our non-existent tango skills.

We got to discover another side of Buenos Aires when we wandered around the San Telmo neighbourhood for its grand Sunday outdoor fair. There were endless booths set up in a market maze around the main square, selling everything from antique coins to grammaphones to silverware to paintings. There were also a wide range of creative street performers, everything from musicians to tango dancers to marionette puppeteers to hilarious mannequin posers.

Given the sheer size of the 13 million people metropolis, we opted for a city tour for getting around to see the main attractions and landmarks. Among other things, we saw the Floralis Generica monument, a giant metallic flower with motorized petals that open at dusk and close at dawn, and the Obelisco monument right in the heart of the famous Avenida 9 de Julio, the widest avenue in the world with 9 lanes (in each direction!). We also visited Plaza de Mayo, the main square where sits La Casa Rosada (the pink house), the government building with its famous balcony where Eva Perón rallied the Argentine people in the late 1940's, and also the site where Madonna sang her rendition of "Don't Cry For Me Argentina" for the film Evita in 1995.

We got a chance to visit the most interesting barrios (neighbourhoods) of Buenos Aires, from the rich sector of La Recoleta, to the newest neighbourhood of Puerto Madero, and finally to the historical neighbourhood of La Boca, where we had the chance to wander around its colourfully-decorated houses and artistic streets.

People could easily spend a few weeks in the Argentinian capital given its immense size, but seeing as we're not huge-city fans, after three days we felt we had appreciated plenty of what the city has to offer. And we were there long enough to realize that the cliché truly isn't an overstatement: Buenos Aires really is the city of steaks, tango, and futból.

defining (moments) indéfinis.

(passé, présent, futur)

[ wanderlust ]


(n.) : a very strong, innate desire to rove or travel about.



(n.) : une profonde envie innée de voyager, de parcourir le monde.